Jun 08 2013
“An object at rest remains at rest unless acted upon by a force. An object in motion remains in motion unless acted upon by a force.” Newton’s First Law of Motion
It’s 4:45am. The alarm clock hasn’t gone off yet but my internal clock has activated. My body continues at rest nestled in the covers and sandwiched between Jeff and Tom Cat. I could happily remain in bed but a force stirs within and sets my body in motion . . .
As I emerge from the house, it is dark, but I can hear the surf – a constant roar. The air is still and cool.
This morning, I don’t have to search but know exactly where to go. I have a mission – to get wet and catch one wave. I’ve been guiding kayak tours a lot and need some “me” time. Time for me to enjoy the ocean and her power and beauty without the responsibility of others.
I know exactly where to go. I don’t expect huge waves, barrels, or even long clean rides – just faces to slide upon and frothy salt water in the face.
Arriving at the beach, no one else is there. Jeff has decided not to surf this morning but tags along to enjoy dawn on the beach. It is light but the sun is not up yet. I watch the waves for just a couple of minutes – not really caring about their shape or form but just longing to be out there in them.
The stillness of the morning is interrupted by the screaming calls of black oystercatchers as they patrol the beach for breakfast. I hop in my kayak and paddle out. As I paddle up and over foam piles, my hands get the first cold water wake-up of the morning. As I move further out into the surf zone and paddle through a wave, the cold water smacks me in the face knocking the cobwebs out. I feel so ALIVE!!!
The surf is small and confused. I see a bump of water on the horizon and continue to work my way to the outside. As the bump travels toward me, I continue to warm-up – focusing on my forward stroke technique – a vertical shaft, good anchor, legs and torso powering the stroke.
The bump continues to roll toward the beach. It wells up into a mound and then into a steep slope of water. I launch onto its 4 foot glassy face, and the sun crests the trees erasing the gray of dawn – sparkling off the whitewater and illuminating the glassy, green face of my wave.
The ride wasn’t anything spectacular but the moment was magical This was the moment that my soul was craving.
|Kayak Surfing on the Mendocino Coast of California|